Country Patron Gives Barman Important Wine Service Tip

Hey pubs – who likes lukewarm sauvignon? That’s right: nobody.

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In a rural pub two weekends ago I was sitting at the bar with my brother- and father-in-law, and three creamy pints of stout in front of us. A man walked in with his wife and ordered beer for himself and “a white wine” for her. The barman, who didn’t seem as though he was new to the trade, turned and got an unpromising-looking 187cl bottle from the dusty shelf behind him.

It’s been a disgusting summer but that particular day was torrid; nearly everyone in the pub was sunburnt to a greater or lesser extent – I had terrible panda eyes myself. Shit white wine served at 21 degrees isn’t going to make anyone happy and the customer, to give him his dues, knew enough on the subject to be able to stop the barman in his tracks: “Can I get one from the cooler, please?”

“Yeah, no problem”, he said placidly, giving the impression that he felt quirky requests like these are simply the lot of anyone who deals with the public.

On returning from the fridge then he unscrewed the cap and poured the big-brand chard-sem, sauv-blanc or whatever into a builder’s mug and – okay, okay, I made the last bit up; he did actually use a proper wine glass (though I’m not really being fair to the word ‘proper’ here).

Still though, it’s more evidence that the wine experience isn’t all it might be in Irish pubs (with honorable exceptions). I don’t even consider ordering wine in most bars, even though I know full well the Murphs will have me writhing around on the floor like a salted worm the next morning.

To be honest, it barely affects me these days anyway. I could blame the kid for my absence from the pub scene but in truth my gradual drawing back from it preempted her arrival by 2-3 years (still though, she’s not helping – BOLD BABY!).

But drinking at home’s not so bad. The two five-star Burgs, below, from From Vineyards Direct, set me back €35.90. If I’d wanted to drink them in a pub setting (not that it would be easy to find nice wines like these in a pub), I would’ve been looking at €120 or so by the time I factored in taxi and babysitter. It’s hard enough for pubs to compete with numbers like these – they don’t need to disadvantage themselves further by committing unpardonable wine faux pas.

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1. Pierre Janny Chorey-les-Beaunes “Marvine” 2007 -> €17.95 From Vineyards Direct -> Tight, firm and savoury on opening, but a totally different beast by day three: mellow and expressive, with classic pinot flavours of earthy beetroot, red fruit, mint and rose petals. Perfectly balanced. *****

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2. Domaine de le Motte, Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2007 -> €17.95 From Vineyards Direct -> There are four ascending tiers in the Chablis hierarchy: Petit Chablis; Chablis – i.e. “ordinary” Chablis: at 66% of total production, by far the biggest category; premier cru; and grand cru. The le Motte here is a premier cru from the village of Beauroy.

Some say that Chablis doesn’t really “need” oak, but a number of producers, like this one, give it a go anyway.

And to much success. You can easily detect the wood but it’s subtle and well judged. A lush, open nose of melon butter leads on to a full-bodied palate of spiky lime, green apples, toast and honey, all against a fresh background of tingly minerals. Fairly complex. Stylish, vivacious and long. Still young, but drinking beautifully right now too. *****

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