Blind Tasting Has Happy Outcome For Once

The temptation when writing a tasting note is to describe the characteristics of a theoretical archetype of the wine type you’re drinking, as opposed to what’s actually in the glass. Beaujolais? Guess that’s low tannins and bubblegum. Chardonnay? Yes, I can really get the butter and melon. Pouilly-Fume? Wow, what about that, um, flint.

Tasting blind is more interesting, even if it can result in some awkward unmaskings of wines.

I was down in the Marina Business Park during the week to collect my long-suffering car from the crash repairs shop there after a third driver in as many years bashed into me. By a strange coincidence, Bubble Brothers wine shop is in that very same business park. Never one to ignore life’s signs, I called in to get myself a bottle as a treat. After all, it was Thursday and I haven’t worked full-time in almost a year.

I asked Valerie, Bubble Brothers’ French Commercial Assistant, to pick me out an Old World red or white between €12 and €18. I wanted a classic style, not a Dolcetto-Syrah blend like I saw recently in Tesco. Demonstrating that she’s not the commercial assistant for nothing, she came in at the higher end (€17.50) of that price band. She wrapped it then so I couldn’t tell what it was.

Last night, then, I asked my wife to open it and pour it into my decanter. “You know you can do it yourself without seeing it – just leave the wrapping on and take out the cork?”, she called back, hopefully, from the couch. I explained that even the cork would bear insignia which would identify the wine – don’t they teach her anything in the HSE?

After she had messily sploshed it into the decanter, I noticed a lot of sediment clinging to the sides. So it wasn’t a very young wine, I thought, as sediment takes time to precipitate out. It also ruled out Beaujolais and probably – bearing in mind the relatively modest price – Burgundy too.

In the glass it was a very deep – almost opaque – ruby colour, with no fading towards the rim, suggesting that maybe it wasn’t so old after all – eek! More sediment in the glass and gloopy tears. I was expecting a lot of alcohol, body and flavour. At this early stage, it gave the impression of being from a warm climate.

I said I would come back to mull over the specific aromas on the reasonably intense nose, and I moved onto the palate. Moderately high levels of acid, tannin, body and alcohol. Loads of black fruit, liquorice, aniseed, prune, oak, tobacco, and black tea. Quite Porty, actually! Very long, savoury finish.

By now, I was pretty certain that it was some type of Rhone wine. As the non-drama unfolded, I posted to my Twitter account, “Halfway through, possibly a Vacqueras…”. Vacqueras is a Rhone appellation. The Twitterverse held its collective breath, probably, for my final decision – “I’m guessing, in this order: 1. Rhone, 2. Bordeaux, 3. South of France syrah-heavy blend.”

Bordeaux might seem a strange guess but I did detect some traits of, admittedly very ripe, Cabernet, such as black fruit, high tannins and acidity. In the end, the strong sense of liquorice and high alcohol (14%) swung it for the Rhone. Plus Bordeaux at that price is more likely to be Merlot-based.

Anyway, when the wine revealed itself to be Domaine de l’Ange Cotes du Rhone, I couldn’t have been happier, even going so far as to call myself a “legend” on Twitter. Too far? I don’t think so.

I scored it 89/100 on Corkd, indicating a very good, almost outstanding, wine.