The Grapes of Sloth

I drink it, so you don’t have to.

Life in Gilded Cage Beckons for GoS. December 9, 2009

Finally, after ten months of blogging, someone has recognised me. I called my wife straight away to tell her; she was excited at first until she realised I wasn’t talking about a job offer. Only slightly deflated, I pondered texting my mother before deciding against – it’s a generation thing, she wouldn’t understand.

The man who helped me break my duck was new friend, Ken, from 1601 Off Licence in Kinsale. I was buying a vernaccia for my Monday night Diploma tasting group and he slyly asked “So, will we be seeing it up on Grapes of Sloth?” If I’d been quicker I would have replied “It depends on how much you discount it by.”

I was too overcome by my moment of fame though, so I just laughed and made chit-chat as I considered my new life wearing dark sunglasses and fake moustache.

Back out on the street I tried to tell if passers-by looked like they recognised me too. One or two seemed to be looking quizzically at me alright, but I was staring at them. As soon as I got online, then, I checked Yahoo’s searches of the day but I was nowhere to be seen in the top ten – and who’s Daryl Johnson?

Okay, maybe hold the shades.

That night I took the vernaccia to the tasting in Rochestown.

*Teruzzi & Puthod, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy, 2008 (12.5%) €16 – Very dry and plump, with (I thought) flavours of yellow apple and papaya. Others in the group detected … stone, minerals, bitter green olive, nut, honeysuckle, aniseed, fennel, and honey. 85/100 (my score).

The reaction was generally positive, with just 2/7 tasters casting aspersions on the wine. Unkind comment of the night came from one of these, who described it as “watered-down Pernod”.

This particular vernaccia is imported by Karwig wines and, as it happened, there was a Karwig rep at the tasting. Though he was unable to recognise his own wine, he at least gave it a glowing report, which is better than the vice-versa scenario.

We also tasted an unpleasantly green and hard Chablis from Supervalu that is reduced to a tenner for Christmas – watch out for it, so you can avoid it. My favourite white was a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (O’Donovans) that most tasters were able to peg as New World Sauv Blanc but all thought from a much warmer region (I thought it Californian). One guy called it “clumsy” – tough crowd.

The reds received a better reception. There was a brace from Puglia in the south of Italy, one from vineyards cooled by altitude, the other from the hotter lowlands, and it was instructive to note the differences between these. Guigal’s 2003 Chateaneuf du Pape was too funky for me but others loved it – farmyard, “ripped spearmint”, red liquorice, cedar, oregano.

Best red was a Minervois (which I was pleased to guess as “a very good Languedoc”), redolent of healthy, ripe blackcurrant, black cherry, plum and smokey bacon. I didn’t catch its price, producer, vintage, or where it’s sold – hopefully you’ll still be able to find it.

By the way, in the picture of the Vernaccia you can just see a red curry in the background. I mention it as it’s made with my home-grown red chillis, a fact of which I’m disproportionately proud. These are also pictured, here , back at the veraison stage. Veraison is the point at which fruits change to their end colour, indicating incipient ripeness. It’s a commonly-used viticultural term. Actually, Veraison was the original name for this blog but I surveyed 1000 close friends and Grapes of Sloth won at a canter.

 

Kiernan Klan Puts The ‘Kin’ in Kinsale. November 30, 2009

My parents came to visit my new pad in Kinsale last Thursday night and a fun night was had by all. Only three glasses were broken and people were mostly on speaking terms by close-of-business Friday evening. My wife needed an extra day of buttering up.

Anyway, here’s what we sampled before the restaurant.

* Martin Mara Godello 2008 (DO Monterrei, Spain) -> Monterrei is a DO in Galicia, NW Spain, very close to the Portuguese border. Godello is the grape, a high-quality, aromatic variety. This one, bought for €15 in 1601 Off Licence, Kinsale, had lots of green apple, gooseberry, citrus and flint on the nose. On the palate, then, extremely dry, with high acidity and more green apple, lemon, apple skin, minerals and (a touch of) asparagus.

Verdict: Well made, steely, dry white in the mould of some Loire Sauvignons or maybe an Aussie Riesling. I was bored of it after one glass, though, and was glad when my parents arrived and polished off the bottle so I could drink something with more character. 83/100

So I moved onto (cough) * Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 (Burgundy-Beaujolais, France) -> From same Offie, €10 -> Love it or loathe it, nobody can accuse BN of lacking character. I didn’t love this one as much as the Dubouef’s I tried last week, but it was still very good. Cheerful purple-pink with confected cherry, raspberry and blackberry on the nose. Light-bodied and low-tannined with good intensity of raspberry and cherry bubblegum, with a touch of rubber dinghy.

Verdict: I drank this with my dad and I explained to him the story of Beaujolais Nouveau, the legalities of its production and sale, the usual tasting profile, and its unique method of production. I woke him up then and we finished the bottle. He’s no wine expert, as he was in the Irish Army from an early age and it’s all Guinness and Scrabble there, but he knows what he likes, and he liked this Beaujolais. I suggested a score 85/100 and he couldn’t find any reason to disagree – that’s what validity sounds like.

 

Guitar and Wine Find Common Ground. November 30, 2009

Filed under: Photographs — Paul J. Kiernan @ 12:41 pm
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House Prices Plunge in Ballinhassig as Kiernan Relocates to Kinsale. November 24, 2009

What an exciting week! First Thierry Henry superbly sets up William Gallas in extra time to nudge perennial underdog, Ireland, out of the last World Cup spot. Disaster is heaped upon calamity, then, when monsoon rains combine with insouciant dam-keepers, ESB, to swamp much of Cork city centre under two feet of murky water.

In the midst of the tempest, I relocated to the St Tropez of Ireland, Kinsale (see picture taken from master bedroom, below). Moving house is a trial at the best of times; it becomes an intolerable burden when a certain person, possibly my wife, is a compulsive hoarder. For this person, nothing is too broken, old, useless, or ugly not to be kept, forever and ever.

Even more excitingly, a nice lady phoned from London this morning to ask if I would be interested in a new job here in Cork. She described the role and then she asked me if it was something I’d potentially be interested in. She had me at hello though. Watch this space.

Anyway, though I’ve largely been absent from Grapes of Sloth and Twitter this past week, I haven’t been neglecting my wine quaffing duties. Here’s what I’ve been drinking.

*D’Arenberg, The Last Ditch Viognier, 2007 (South Australia) Pictured, left: Medium lemon-gold. On the nose, white peach, citrus zest and green pepper. Off-dry, with lowish acidity, slight alcohol burn and full body. Pronounced flavours of butterscotch, peach, coconut, bitter orange and ginger – pretty complex! Verdict: Seemed slightly clumsy at first but mellowed the longer it was open. Drank much better on the second night and proved a good match for a chilli pork stirfry. 86/100 -> About €15 in good off-licences.

*George Dubouef Beaujolais Nouveau, 2009 (France). Pictured above, right: This is a really good wine! Good depth of purple colour and an intense nose of fresh red cherry, strawberry and – yes! – banana. Dry, with great freshness and very low tannins. Medium-minus body and good intensity of raspberry, bitter black cherry, liquorice, and leaf on the palate. Very respectable finish. Verdict: Impressively chewy and concentrated. 2009 is considered to be an excellent year for Beaujolais, and it certainly shows in this wine. 87/100 -> About €11, widely available.

*Laffont Madiran, 2005 (Tannat-based wine from SW France) Pictured, top-left: I should really give this note more prominence, or at least put it next to the picture, as this is probably my favourite red wine of the past six months. It’s a gorgeous vivid ruby with a cheeky pink tint towards the rim, and loads of gloopy tears. Rich, warming aromas of blackcurrant, prune, cloves and cedar waft from the glass. It’s dry with med+ acidity and very high tannins. Again, more intense blackcurrant on the palate, this time with hints of red fruit to lighten the profile a bit, and leather and tobacco too. Full bodied, with a long, savoury, dry finish. Very masculine wine! Verdict: What a wine! Concentrated, fresh, complex and long. You could say that it’s too young but I say drink it now, if you are man enough for the tannins. 94/100 – outstanding. About €21 from Karwig Wines, Carrigaline.

 

House Move Takes GoS Off Air For Two Weeks November 21, 2009

Filed under: Random Posts — Paul J. Kiernan @ 4:38 pm
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